nigel slater's carrot and coriander fritters

nigel slater's carrot and coriander fritters

For years, I didn't much care for the herb coriander. The spice? Yes. The herb? Definitely not. The simple reason is because I am one of some ten per cent of the world's population that can taste the aldehydes in coriander, which also appear in soap. So what tastes like a slightly citrusy and aromatic herb to you, tastes of lemon-scented soapy washing up liquid to me. I think you'll agree that this isn't very appetising at all!

spice up your life! chicken stewed with berber red spice paste

chicken stewed with Berber red spice paste

I recently had a forgotten treasure returned to me. Some three years ago a friend asked me what cookbook I would recommend for someone who wanted to broaden their cooking horizons but who refused to buy any cookbook that involved television tie-ins or shouty celebrity chefs.

"Well, Nigel Slater and Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall are rather good," I said.

"Are they on television?" He asked plaintively. "Yes," I replied, "but they don't shout". "Then no," my friend said firmly. Well that narrowed things down a lot.

"Not too old-fashioned," he said. "And I want pictures, and a few anecdotes but definitely no shouting. Or models. Or bloody fairy lights!"

a winter-warming broccoli and blue cheese soup

broccoli and blue cheese soup

Spring may well be around the corner, but London skies are resolutely grey and there is a damp chill in the air. I need to eat something comforting; something that will warm me up on a cold day. Which makes it a soup day and if I could just wait another few weeks I would be able to harvest the rampant wild leeks in my back garden. But I can't wait. I want soup and I want it now. And it needs to be green!

Beautiful cruciferous broccoli isn't just a vegetable to be served as a side dish. It's bitter-sweet intensely green flavour works beautifully in soup. Broccoli also has an affinity for strong salty flavours, so adding blue cheese is a marriage made in soup heaven! 

what's in season: february

snowdrops in my garden

When the cat lies in the sun in February
She will creep behind the stove in March.
(Traditional English saying)

Clearly whoever came up with that saying had never met my cat; a cat so indolent that she never gets out of bed for anything less than nuclear fusion. (She spends an awful lot of time in bed!)

This morning was beautifully sunny. Definitely cold, but you can almost smell spring is on the horizon. So if you want to put the drab, dark days of winter behind you and put a little colour into your culinary life, then it is the right time to celebrate rhubarb.

stuffed mushrooms with lentils, bacon, parsley pesto and Stilton

stuffed mushrooms with lentils, bacon, parsley pesto and Stilton

I think I must have inherited my late Scottish mother's somewhat parsimonious approach to food waste - a little part of me dies every time I open the kitchen compost canister to throw away anything other than vegetable peelings, tea bags or burnt toast. But a frugal approach to food, waste and in particular, in leftovers, doesn't have to be austere, puritanical or even joyless. It can be fun. No, really. It really can.

This is not so much a recipe, but a suggestion of how to use up several spoonful’s of leftovers and a few forgotten inhabitants of the fridge.

have I created a new life form in the kitchen?

alien life form or runaway icing?

Am I having a Victor Frankenstein moment in the kitchen? Have I created a new life form? Or could it be that my icing has just made a bid for freedom?

There are days when you know that things just aren't going to turn out well; that it will probably end in tears - very likely your own. I've been having a couple of those kinds of days.

winter pork and blue cheese crumble with apple, leek and cider

winter pork and blue cheese crumble
with apple, leeks and cider

I see raised eyebrows and quizzical looks when I mention that I've made a savoury crumble for supper. "Can you do that?" people ask. "Of course I can do that" I think. It's not as if I need Superman - there is no heavy lifting involved!

I suppose most people associate crumble with fruit, dessert and custard. But think of it this way - any stew, casserole or bake that would normally be topped with say potatoes, dumplings or breadcrumbs can be turned into a crumble. Replace the sugar in your crumble topping with Parmesan cheese and you have a delicious crunchy topping for any winter warming supper.

the peasant deep inside: sausage and lentil stew

sausage and lentil stew

When the temperature drops to zero, I reach inside myself for warming reserves and get in touch with my inner peasant. Halloo, I say. And my inner peasant takes a break from hoeing spuds, drunken brawling and chewing on pigs' ears to embrace with me a winter-warming  and hearty stew of sausages and lentils.

a little bit on the side: winter ratatouille

winter ratatouille
(baked courgettes with piperade)

I try to buy and cook seasonal British produce, I really do. But I get cravings, cravings so cantankerous that I cannot deny myself the pleasures of food of the sun. When I give in it stops my stomach from belly-aching. I just can't help myself and this time it is all the fault of television schedulers.

Eh? Wha?

clementine and dark chocolate chip shortbread stars

Clementine and Dark Chocolate Chip
Shortbread Stars

Shortbread is one of my favourite sweet indulgences. But I usually like it plain and think that shortbread really shouldn't be mucked about with. But recently a friend baked some chocolate chip shortbread biscuits and they were rather nice indeed. I am prepared to admit that I was wrong; I have seen the light! 

potato, onion and blue cheese bake: it is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes . . .

potato, onion and blue cheese bake

It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.
Douglas Adams
(Life, the Universe and Everything - 1982)

No, potatoes won't solve major problems, but add a whole load of cheese and a few breadcrumbs; you can curl around a steaming bowl of melting cheese and floury spuds and forget about the icy blizzard outside.

for breakfast, dinner, lunch and tea: a good mushroom omelette

a simple mushroom omelette

Custom does often reason overrule
But only serves for reason to the fool.
John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester 

So in thinking about what the notorious Earl of Rochester had to say about reason, custom and fools, I had to ask myself why it is then that I add a splash of water to my eggs before I make an omelette?

I add a smidgen of cold water to my eggs because that is how my mother taught me to make an omelette. Why did she do this? Because her mother taught her to. Is it reasonable?